gun.gif - 8830 Bytesbanner.gif - 16593 Bytes
shirtbanner.jpg - 8870 Bytes

Parkerizing is not that difficult to do and I can usually get away with doing it in my kitchen when the wife steps out. First strip the pistol and degrease it, I usually use Gumout carb cleaner or Gum cutter from Napa to degrease. Next if the pistol is blued, the blueing must be removed I usually use a 5 gallon bucket of Muratic acid and water cut 50/50. It usually only takes about 10-15 seconds before the old blueing disappears. The muratic acid trick will not work on a parkerized finish, test with a Q-tip first to ensure it will remove finish. If you pistol is parkerized the acid will not remove it in the Q-tip test and dipping pistol in a bucket of muratic will not work and you will have to bead blast old finish off. Dry off your pistol parts next and hit them with the carb cleaner one more time to rinse the acid off before you bead blast all parts that you want parkerized. Try not to touch the parts once they have been bead blasted, wrap them in newspaper and take them in the house (Fig 1). Ensure your air compressor has a moisture remover and you drain it before bead blasting or your frame will flash rust and not take the parkerizing properly. Next get out your parkerizing solution, many solutions are available, I use a Manganese solution from Palmetto Industries, it leaves my 1911's a great looking flat black (Fig 2). The solution comes concentrated and must be cut with waterpark1s.jpg - 15248 Bytes about 9 parts water to 1 part solution which means a little solution will go a long way. Put enough solution and water in a stainless steel pan to cover parts. Next heat the solution to about 180 degrees and put your gun parts in the pan. I use a stainless steal pan large enough to accomodate a frame and slide. I use stainless tongs to put the small parts in and out, and use black iron wire available from brownells or a hardware store to wire the frame and slide which make it easy to get them in and out of the pot. Once the parts are placed in the pan they will start to fizz (Fig 4), once parts stop fizzing or you reach 8-10 minutes pull them out and instantly hold them under running water and place them into a tin foil pan and spray them with WD-40. Next inspect them one at a time, If you are not happy with color put them back in for a few minutes. Sometimes you might get a mottled color on a select few areas if this happens just run out to your garage and rebead blast just the affected area not the whole thing and drop back in. Once all parts are to your satisfaction they should look like (Fig 5). All that is left to do now is to wipe them down and coat them with a good gun oil and reassemble (Fig 6). One last sidenote I only use my solution for one batch and will not reuse it after it has cooled. Discard solution and clean up and hope the old lady don't catch you.
PS dont use a Kitchen pot ensure you get a dedicated parkerizing pot!
Good luck

park2s.jpg - 12091 Bytes park3s.jpg - 11793 Bytes park4s.jpg - 11775 Bytes park5s.jpg - 15292 Bytes park6s.jpg - 13184 Bytes

The parkerizing solution can be obtained from Palmetto Enterprises (864) 246-3836 they are located in Greenville S.C.
The black iron wire is available from Brownells supply (641) 623-4000 and is part # 038-018-003 and cost $2.95 and also works great for blueing also.