Triggers, In this section I will show you how to install a trigger in your 1911. There are several different triggers to choose from, but the Videki three-hole is the standard, and the one I use the most. The Dlask is also nice, and so is the McCormick for the money. The first thing to do when installing a trigger is to see if the trigger bows are bowed out or not. To test I put the trigger in the frame backwards, like (Fig 2), there should be no drag going in or out, if there is either your frame is dirty or the trigger bows might be bent slightly out or bowed out. To see where there is bind, if any mark the outside of your trigger bows with a Black Marks-alot Marker and reinstall, slide back and forth several times, and remove to see where black has worn off. Then very carefully squeeze bows in with thumb and forefinger just a little and re-test. Dont go to far here or the inside of your bows will drag on your magazine. Once that is done, attempt to put trigger in the correct way (shoe-first). Most triggers will not fit all the way into your frame the first time you attempt this, because the aluminum shoe is usually too tall. But that is not the case with the McMormick triggers; they seem to be a drop in trigger on most frames. If your trigger is too tall, the first thing I do is decide where material must be removed. Break out the Marks-alot again and coat the top and bottom of the trigger shoe, and the sides if you think it is dragging there also, and reinstall and force in as far as it will go and remove. Do this several times, and the frame will wear off the black marker at the high points. Now take trigger out and set on a fine cut file as in (Fig 3) and with downward pressure take several strokes; do the same for other side if necessary, and attempt to re-install. Keep removing material until trigger just drops in frame, then remove and set trigger on some fine sandpaper. I usually use 400 grit and start to polish the tops and bottoms of the trigger shoe. Keep installing in frame until shoe will drop in frame with no effort, and will also slide out with no effort. What you are looking for is no drag at all but there should be no perciptible movement up and down; that is the sign of a good trigger install. Now occasionally the frame might have a bur or two, and be scratching the sides of the trigger. If so, I take a fine needle file and hit the insides of the frame where it would make contact with the sides of the trigger. Go lightly here, and just ensure there are no burs. Usually, once trigger is finished I bead blast trigger to get it back to that frosted look, like when you pulled it out of the bag. The last thing to do after getting your trigger fit to your frame; is to adjust your overtravel screw. It is adjusted by completely removing, applying blue loctite to the screw and installing almost all the way in. Now also install your mag release, as that is what the overtravel screw stops on. Re-assemble complete handgun, cock hammer, and attempt to pull trigger. If hammer does not fall, then screw is in too much. Unscrew 1/4 turn at a time until hammer drops when trigger is pulled, then turn screw out another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Lastly, with trigger pulled to the rear, move hammer up and down with your thumb and ensure you don't feel the sear binding on the half-cock notch as the hammer is moving up and down. If so, back out set screw another 1/4 turn. Now let loctite dry and you are done. One note of concern for overtravel trigger screw on a Colt series 80 trigger: Once you have adjusted the overtravel set screw on the trigger, ensure you are pulling the trigger far enough to the rear to engage the firing pin safety. If not, the hammer will fall but the firing pin will not be realeased to hit the primer. Test by putting a pencil in you barrel, eraser first, and holding up when dry firing. Pencil should be thrown from barrel by firing pin. If not, then unscrew overtravel screw until firing pin safety is disengaging when hammer is falling. That's all there is to it.