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DEHORNING a 1911 is not that tricky to do and only takes with the right tools about 30 mins to do well. I never use power tools to dehorn a 1911 and I think your asking for trouble if you attempt it, unless you run a buffer or sanding machine for a living stay away from anything with a motor when dehorning. You will notice in Fig-1 the slide I am starting with is a Kimber stock slide with very sharp corners. In Fig-2 you can see me start to hit it at a 45% angle with a Nicholson triangle file. I will put a good flat on the sharp corner on both sides of the rear of the slide. Next I hit the bottom of the slide for the length of the slide, Lastly get the front of the slide. I use chainsaw files and a triangle file for the front of the slide. In Fig-3 you can see what the slide looks like after I have hit the rear of the slide with the file. Sometimes if this is the look I am going for I will just put some fine 220 grit sandpaper on a piece of wood or a ruler and polish this new angle and refinish. Other times I want more of a polished edge so I will next shoe-shine all new dehorned edges with 120 grit sandpaper, I buy my sandpaper in sandpaper rolls that are 1 inch wide by 25 feet long and use a 1/2 inch wide piece to shoe-shine slide. Next follow up the 120 grit with some 220 grit. Ensure that your sandpaper is a cloth backed type as it will last longer and is stronger when sanding the corner of the slide. You can see in the last two photos what the slide ended up looking like as this is the same slide with just a refinish on it. When dehorning a 1911 I always dehorn the rear of the slide, the front of the slide, the bottom outside of the rail, the barrel bushing, the slide stop, the thumb safety and the ejection port of the slide.