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Front cocking serrations or press check grooves (whatever you decide to call them) can be easily added to your pistol with a milling machine and a little time. The first step to adding serrations on the front of your slide is to gather a good new carbide bit. I usually try to find a good 3/8 or 1/2 inch 4 flute end mill that is not too worn, and I spin bit at 1100RPM. You will also need to chuck your slide in the vise sideways; I use the Yavapai slide jig, a picture can be seen in (Fig 1). This is an invaluable tool for the 1911smith, so if you don't have one yet, get it. It can be purchased from Brownells. Once you have a milling machine ready, and your slide turned sideways in your vise, go ahead and ensure it is level. You can either use a bubble level or dial indicator. Once slide is level, go ahead and rotate head of mill 20 Deg towards muzzle end of slide (Fig 2). Alright, now slide is in vise, head is turned 20 Deg, and all that is left to do is to start cutting. But first, if you are cutting a Springfield with diagonal serrations, turn Vise 75 Deg to match the rear serrations. I usually put 14 serrations on a full size Govt. model because I think it looks and works best. Of course if you are doing a Compact or Officers slide, just cut to suit. I always line up the lowest part of the milling machine bit with the end of the slide, then move in .300 inches and begin my first cut there. What I usually do after moving slide in, is lock quill so it won't move, and slowly crank up table until bit is just kissing slide and removing a whisker of metal. Then I move slide forward out from under bit, move table up .024, and make a pass with your cutter. Go slow and use a little lube. Then move table .067 to the right or left, depending on which side you are doing, and make another pass. Do this untill you have 14 serrations. What I do when I am ready to cut the other side of the slide is just loosen the allen wrenches on the jig, Pull off slide and put on from the other side, I do this without removing jig from vise, and you should not even have to relevel slide. Then all you have to do is rotate head of mill to the other side, and be careful not to let head rotate down and gouge your slide. So a recap; Your first cut should be .300 from end of slide, you should have.067 between each line, with a depth of .024, and a total of 14 lines. This is the closest I have found to match stock springfield and Colt slides. As long as your bit was in good shape I think you will be pleased with the results, Good luck.